Beginning May 23, Bonhams will present over 200 jewels to be auctioned from the estate of Charlotte and George Shultz. These important works, including many from the incomparable Jean Schlumberger, have an illustrious personal history to their collector, as they were worn by Charlotte when receiving Queen Elizabeth II, Pope John Paul II, the Dalai Lama, and countless other world leaders as San Francisco’s chief of protocol.
George and Charlotte Shultz at the Opera Ball.
The Shultzes were very involved in San Francisco’s charities and public service programs, considering they were both in the public eye (George served as the Secretary of State under President Ronald Reagan and also held four cabinet positions under three other presidents). Charlotte served on the boards of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, the San Francisco Opera, the San Francisco Symphony, the San Francisco Ballet, and several other organizations and was known for her exquisitely tailored wardrobe—she favored gowns by Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera when dressing for important galas and dinners, which she paired with artful jewels that had a sense of graceful movement to them.
The Hedges and Rows necklace designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. featuring yellow beryl, turquoise, and diamonds, set in platinum.
“George and Charlotte Shultz had an incredible love story that was celebrated in the fabulous jewelry they bought together,” says Emily Waterfall, director of jewelry for Bonhams Los Angeles. “She had an extraordinary jewelry box, but two necklaces are absolute showstoppers. The Hedges and Rows and the Scarf necklaces from Tiffany & Co. are two of the most sought after and wearable designs by one of the most important jewelry designers of the last century: Jean Schlumberger. His dreamy and playful designs have been worn by the most stylish women in the world, from the Duchess of Windsor to Elizabeth Taylor and from Jackie Kennedy to Charlotte Shultz. Bonhams is thrilled to be presenting this extraordinary collection and celebrating this fantastic collection of jewelry with an important American provenance.”
A late 19th century silver-topped gold and diamond en tremblant brooch.
These two works by Jean Schlumberger—the Hedges and Rows and Scarf necklaces—were two of the designer’s most treasured works and have been featured in several important books and museum exhibits. One of the most important American jewelry designers of the 20th century, Schlumberger’s works were known for their curious movement, ties to nature, and brilliant color combinations thanks to the gemstones he selected.
Charlotte Shultz wearing a Cartier gold and diamond Trinity ring and several designs by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.
Charlotte Shultz was born in the Texas panhandle and arrived in San Francisco in 1963 with only $35 in her pocket. She studied fashion design at the University of Arkansas, which in part explains her impeccable style. The Shultz’s wedding in 1997—which took place at the Grace Cathedral—was quite the social event, and George—who was known to collect jewelry with Charlotte and would gift her pieces, whether it was a holiday or special occasion or not—accessorized his black tie with with ruby, sapphire, and diamond studs on their wedding day.
Another Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. platinum, turquoise, and diamond earrings.